D R O P ' N ' R U N

The swell had come up overnight, along with the wind, so the first light surf check wasn’t looking great. The decision was easy, head off to work, surf later… The winds eased through the day, the swell had come down to a more manageable size for the sand banks and the tide was just pushing up enough, I knew for sure the wreck would have waves.

I played my usual trick on Lockie and gave him zero notice to come shoot. At the time he was halfway through a cheeky stubbie, late on a Friday, he was just easing his way into the weekend. “I’m heading in now Lock, I’ll let you know if there are waves” I spat, tearing through the office full of froth. I got to the wreck and saw two hollow lefts in a row drain off the rudder, I called Lockie straight away “mate, get here now!”  “Wait for me” he mumbled, through the last mouthful of beer, “I’ll be there in 5” (Locks 5 is easily 20) “sorry pal, I’m out there,” pulling on my boardies and grabbing my 5’3” Vinnie, no chance I’m going to sit around and watch this. It wasn’t long before Lockie joined me and a few other punters out there, chasing that ever elusive left off the peg. The waves were a good size, easily manageable on a small board and big enough to let you know all about it if you got smoked. Lockie did well, the current was strong, rushing towards the wreck. He was hanging wide until the sets came, swimming in to get the shot then would swim a huge wide circle out away from the current and back into the position. After a few beat downs, some good tunnel vision and the one that got away, the session was done, Debbie had been and gone, and the Nother Rivers was one massive puddle.