"My mate Ben Monroe and I just raided Sydney, catching up with some old mates and new ones too. Chonno joined us and we scored Fairy Bower on a cracking East swell that had been lighting up our Coast. 


East swell Bower is a helluva good wave, and I’ve hit it many times over the past 55 years, originally with the greats like Nipper Williams, Robbie Lane, Snowy McAlister, Glynn Ritchie, Bob Pike, Morrie Lee, Billy Hammond, Bob Evans, Wheels Williams, and Scotty Dillon. In the 70’s it was Terry Fitzgerald and Midget that really stood out on their Hawaiian influenced guns.

Now, the Bower belongs to a new gang of chargers, an amiable bunch who made me feel welcome as we chatted between the bombs they charged on their various modern longboards, Fireballs and Billy Tolhursts etc. I misjudged the swell and only travelled with my Noosa 66, no legrope, no wetsuit. Stoopid!! But the gang let me get a couple - the new Bower Mob, not that different to the original 60’s crew, fearlessly taking off deep behind Surge Rock and not always making it. Long swims, long drags across that walled-up boulder zone. Scary! Thanks, fellas! Of course Chonno, who’s always surprising and delightful to watch, also got some bombs.

Ah well, I got home to Byron for my knee replacement last Monday! More Bower soon hopefully, with a new knee. 


Photos by @sproutdaily